It's great and I use it all the time (I even use the organic fluxed solder paste) but the procedures are completely different so you ABSOLUTELY need to know exactly what you have. Isopropyl alcohol (99) works (with rosin flux). Generally, the only real issue is with the organic stuff (water washable). Weeks of trying to figure out why the boards didnt work ensued. We went through hell at the day job where the person doing the ordering wasn't exactly the coldest beer in the fridge and she arbitrarily restocked all the rosin based solder with organic based and all our cleaning procedures went out the window (ultrasonic cleaner with IPA doesnt work on organic flux). To add to the OP: Dont use solder that you cant get a data sheet for. The silicone is a natural desiccant so it absorbs moisture to cure
The result was a hermetic thin layer of a soft silicone-ish material. If it is a rosin based solder flux, you will likely have to do the Detergent 8 cleaning afterwards, which will remove any conductive flux residue. No-clean fluxes should be thrown into the garbage (or perhaps disposed of in an environmentally responsible manner). The Flux-Off Rosin formulation is a fast drying aerosol that quickly and completely removes R, RMA, RA, and synthetic flux residue. There are tons of spray on conformal coatings for this, the way we did it was to wash the board with methanol, dry with compressed air, and simply spray on. RMA/RA fluxes are pretty benign, though some recommend cleaning. I'd like to get this sorted out eventually. The tricky bit is that unless I can be completely certain of having removed all of the moisture, I would just be sealing it onto the board instead. It’s essentially a paint brush cleaner that does a great job at removing flux without having to resort to using a brush to scrub it off the board. Ideally, I would like to seal my boards better against moisture, as I live in a coastal town. If I see that perf or pcbs need cleaning before I solder them, I use acetone.
The flux residue left after soldering is non-conductive and non-hygroscopic. If gunk from tap water remain upon the board and non-porous parts, it's because they were sticky and not 100% clean in the first place. It can be applied by foam, dip, spray or brush. As for residual minerals, the way I see it, they are not likely to just deposit themselves onto a clean surface. If they need especial cleaning, I use isopropyl. I do not even use flux most of the time - just clean parts, a hot tip, and the flux which is in the solder already. What I have been doing is cleaning them with extremely hot tap water and a brush. Solaris wrote:so, all you people here doing synth repairs or synth DIY, are you stating you simply wash your PCBs with tap water, let them dry and that's it?
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